Confused LED user regarding dimming

Hi all,

I've been reading all night and THINK I've found a solution to my issue, but the last few sources I read from make me think otherwise.

I had a Cbus system installed today, I've got LED dimmable downlight. The driver states "triac dimmable" on them. I purchased the L5504D2U Universal dimmer to control them as I'd previously used a single trailing edge clipsal (green one) dimmer with great success (just the knob on the wall, not Cbus).

I have three circuits-all are LED and all require dimming. First circuit- 10 led fittings at 12watts a piece. Dims smoothly and I'm satisfied with its operation. Second circuit - 6 LED fittings (identical brand/make to the others), these dim to a point (around 40% at a guess) and start to flicker. Circuit 3 has 2 LED downlight fittings and flickers continuously even without dimming.

From the above I have concluded that the load on each circuit is what's causing performance differences. I googled and searched this forum and stumbled across what I though was a solution - a 31CAP load correction device run on the effected circuits to make them operate correctly. I've read this would solve the problem. But then I read that I should be using a leading edge dimmer and install resistors in series to up the load...the second option didn't sound right to me but I read similar suggestions in two cases.

Some more info that might help with a meaningful answer:
Circuit 1 (works well-10 x 12watts) shows an orange Light on the dimmer indicating trailing edge, circuit 2 also shows orange, circuit 3 however shows green, I assumed it to be too light load for the dimmer to work out what to do?

If its not possible-I don't mind if the LEDs only dim to a certain point then turn off. I just can't have them flickering like a strobe light. When wired to the trailing edge hand dimmer (green unit) they wouldn't dim to 0% but they dimmed down enough for my use (about 5% ish)


My question:

Will a 31cap fix the flickering? Or will a 'dummy load' such as a low wattage incandescent light bulb fix it (I don't like this idea, mixing an incandescent light with an electronic transformer/driver? This was a suggestion that I read elsewhere).

Will wiring each of the led drivers in series rather than parallel help? (Read that one too).


I thank you all in advance for your help. I'm sure this will be an easy fix.

 

Thanks Ashleigh,

Why would I use a leading edge dimmer if I've already got a universal dimmer? I don't think the LED drivers are the issue, I think I've just dipped below the minimum load that the dimmer will function at properly as the circuit with 10 lights works perfectly, no flickering during ramp up/down at all. Just the circuits with 6 LEDs and the other with 2 LEDs are flickering. The severity of flicker is inversely proportional to the number of led fittings on that circuit (ie load).

I'm not too concerned about power usage, I'd rather burn a few extra watts and have these dimming nicely rather than save a bit of power and the place look like a night club.

What do you think about the resistor idea? This morning I kept researching and it keeps popping up. Something like this: http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.aspx?&t=800&r=1256&i=10031&a=1
Only problem is I'd need a few or a bigger one. As the circuit that behaves nicely is approximately 120watt (12watt lights x 10 lights) and the two flickering circuits are 72watts and 24watts. Quite a bit of waste, but it would get the job done right?

 

Ashleigh

I don't seem to have permission to PM. But I was going to ask if I can just buy new drivers and keep the LED fittings - I don't see why not, there's nothing inside the led lamp itself except the LEDs themselves.

I'd buy 2 drivers first to try on my smallest circuit and if that works - I'd replace all drivers.

Thanks again.

 

I would seriously consider using

- Clipsal
- OSRAM
- Barricade

LED kits.

Maybe it is already too late this time around but maybe in a few years the price jump wont hurt.

 

I tried a 31CAP today, no joy. The lights would come on but after a few seconds would go out and stay out.

I think I'll try purchasing a known to work LED driver and swap it for the driver I have now.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but as long as I purchase a 700mA constant current driver with a similar voltage range (6-20v) I should be right?

Ashleigh I got your message, ill read through all the info you sent tonight. I appreciate it! Thank you.

 

Hi adamsonline
Really Ashleigh gave you the most comprehensive answer the first time round. If you want to mix and match your LED's and drivers you are on your own unless you really know what you are doing (and by the fact you considered connecting them is series, it appears that you do not). LED's are 100x more complex than a GLS lamp. If you want it to work and be sure you're not going to burn you house down get a complete set (match driver and LED module) from a reputable supplier.
If you think you have that then take it up with the supplier.